{"id":7437,"date":"2021-12-29T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-12-28T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/uncategorized\/maria-antoinetta-ako-kontroverzna-kralovna-mody\/"},"modified":"2021-12-29T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2021-12-28T23:00:00","slug":"maria-antoinetta-ako-kontroverzna-kralovna-mody","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/archiv\/maria-antoinetta-ako-kontroverzna-kralovna-mody\/","title":{"rendered":"M\u00e1ria Antoinetta ako kontroverzn\u00e1 kr\u00e1\u013eovn\u00e1 m\u00f3dy"},"content":{"rendered":"<h3><strong>Jej trendy dodnes napodob\u0148uj\u00fa \u0161pi\u010dkov\u00ed n\u00e1vrh\u00e1ri <\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Po\u010das dlh\u00fdch rokov boli kr\u00e1\u013eovn\u00e9 posudzovan\u00e9 na z\u00e1klade toho, \u010do na sebe mali oble\u010den\u00e9. Od sukn\u00ed Isabeau Bavorskej (kv\u00f4li ktor\u00fdm sa museli dokonca roz\u0161irova\u0165 dvere), a\u017e po s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00fa m\u00f3dnu ikonu Kate Middleton, \u013eud\u00ed neust\u00e1le fascinovali kr\u00e1\u013eovsk\u00e9 outfity. \u017diadna z\u00a0kr\u00e1\u013eovien v\u0161ak nepodnietila \u201e\u0161t\u00fdlov\u00fa revol\u00faciu\u201c nato\u013eko ako M\u00e1ria Antoinetta. Prehnan\u00e9 pastelov\u00e9 r\u00f3by zdoben\u00e9 ma\u0161\u013eami a\u00a0stuhami \u010di jednoduch\u00e9 mu\u0161el\u00ednov\u00e9 \u0161aty vzbudzuj\u00face obdiv aj opovrhnutie. Trendy franc\u00fazskej kr\u00e1\u013eovnej dodnes napodob\u0148uj\u00fa \u0161pi\u010dkov\u00ed m\u00f3dni n\u00e1vrh\u00e1ri.<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<h3><strong>Premena z arcivojvodkyne na Dauphine<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Ke\u010f M\u00e1ria Antoinetta pri\u0161la do Franc\u00fazska, aby sa stala dauphine (v roku 1770) mala iba 14 rokov. Rak\u00fasko zaplatilo za <strong>osobn\u00fd majetok nevesty<\/strong> (zvy\u010dajne zah\u0155\u0148al oble\u010denie, vybavenie r\u00f4zneho druhu \u010di dom\u00e1cu bielize\u0148 akou boli napr\u00edklad aj uter\u00e1ky) 400\u00a0000 livier, pri\u010dom boli v\u0161etky veci vyroben\u00e9 v\u00fdhradne v\u00a0Par\u00ed\u017ei. Ak mala mlad\u00e1 princezn\u00e1 vyhovie\u0165 pr\u00edsnym poh\u013eadom dvoranov vo Versailles, in\u00e1 mo\u017enos\u0165 ani neprich\u00e1dzala do \u00favahy.<\/p>\n<p>V\u00a0de\u0148 jej pr\u00edchodu do novej vlasti bola M\u00e1ria oble\u010den\u00e1 v\u00a0o\u010daruj\u00facich (rak\u00faskych) svadobn\u00fdch \u0161at\u00e1ch. Na znak zrieknutia sa rak\u00faskych zvyklost\u00ed a z\u00e1rove\u0148\u00a0v\u00a0prospech prijatia v\u0161etk\u00e9ho franc\u00fazskeho, princezn\u00e1 si musela n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 \u0161aty vyzliec\u0165. Skon\u010dila tak oble\u010den\u00e1 v\u00a0spodnej bielizni, n\u00e1sledne je preobliekli do franc\u00fazskej m\u00f3dy. O\u00a0tejto zmene sa hovorilo, \u017ee jej dopomohla k\u00a0tomu, aby sa stala tis\u00edckr\u00e1t \u0161armantnej\u0161ou a\u00a0o\u010daruj\u00facej\u0161ou.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Rose Bertin \u2013 \u201eministerka m\u00f3dy\u201c M\u00e1rie Antoinetty <\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Ako mnoh\u00e9 \u010fal\u0161ie m\u00f3dne ikony, aj Antoinetta vyu\u017e\u00edvala slu\u017eby \u0161tylistky a\u00a0n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rky. Za svoju \u201eministerku m\u00f3dy\u201c si vybrala kraj\u010d\u00edrku <strong>Rose Bertin<\/strong>. Marie Jeanne \u201eRose\u201c Bertin bola oby\u010dajnou \u017eenou, z\u00a0ktorej M\u00e1ria vychovala sl\u00e1vnu m\u00f3dnu \u0161tylistku a\u00a0n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rku \u010d\u00edslo jeden na dvore vo Versailles. Bertin sa tak podarilo z\u00edska\u0165 prominentn\u00fa klientelu z\u00a0naju\u017e\u0161ieho okolia kr\u00e1\u013eovnej, \u010do z\u00a0nej urobilo bohat\u00fa \u017eenu. Medzi jej klientov patrila i\u00a0bl\u00edzka priate\u013eka M\u00e1rie Antoinetty princezn\u00e1 de Lamballe, ale aj portr\u00e9tistka Vigee Le Brun.<\/p>\n<p>Bertin dostala vo\u013en\u00fa ruku aj pri vytv\u00e1ran\u00ed prepychov\u00fdch spolo\u010densk\u00fdch \u0161iat pre svoju kr\u00e1\u013eovn\u00fa, vhodn\u00fdch na form\u00e1lne vyst\u00fapenia na dvore. O M\u00e1rii Antoinette sa povr\u00e1valo, \u017ee si nechala vyrobi\u0165 a\u017e 300 \u0161iat ro\u010dne a\u00a0\u017eiadny z\u00a0modelov na sebe nemala dvakr\u00e1t.<\/p>\n Mademoiselle Rose Bertin, osobn\u00e1 kraj\u010d\u00edrka M\u00e1rie Antoinetty Zdroj:sk.pinterest.com\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Ko\u0161ie\u013eka \u00e0 la Reine: M\u00f3dny hit alebo politick\u00e9 faux pas?<\/strong><\/h3>\n Portr\u00e9t M\u00e1rie Antoinetty v ko\u0161ie\u013ekov\u00fdch \u0161at\u00e1ch, ktor\u00e9ho autorkou je Elisabeth Louise Vigee Le Brun Zdroj:sk.pinterest.com\n<p>Na prv\u00fd poh\u013ead ne\u0161kodn\u00e9 ko\u0161ie\u013ekov\u00e9 \u0161aty,\u00a0 ktor\u00e9 v\u0161ak do 18. storo\u010dia (najm\u00e4 v predrevolu\u010dnom Franc\u00fazsku) vyvol\u00e1vali pob\u00farenie. Kr\u00e1\u013eovn\u00fa kritizovali za propagandu m\u00f3dy, v ktorej sa namiesto franc\u00fazskeho hodv\u00e1bu pou\u017e\u00edvala l\u00e1tka z dovozu. Jej inovat\u00edvne n\u00e1pady mali negat\u00edvny vplyv na u\u017e aj tak upadaj\u00facu ekonomiku.<\/p>\n<p>Antoinetta odmietala nepru\u017enos\u0165 korzetov\u00e9ho oble\u010denia a v\u0161etky nepraktick\u00e9 dvoransk\u00e9 zvyky a\u017e nato\u013eko, \u017ee ju mnoh\u00ed odcudzovali &#8211; dokonca ozna\u010dovali ako <strong>doji\u010dku <\/strong>(kv\u00f4li \u0161t\u00fdlu obliekania).\u00a0Ona sa v\u0161ak aj napriek kritike prech\u00e1dzala v\u00a0okol\u00ed z\u00e1mku Mal\u00fd Trianon (Petit Trianon) v\u00a0jednoduch\u00fdch mu\u0161el\u00ednov\u00fdch outfitoch.<\/p>\n<p>\u201eKo\u0161ie\u013ekov\u00e1 r\u00f3ba\u201c sa nakoniec presadila nielen vo Franc\u00fazsku, ale aj v Anglicku. T\u00fato revol\u00faciu v \u0161t\u00fdle <strong>\u201espodn\u00e1 bielize\u0148 ako vrchn\u00e9 oble\u010denie\u201c<\/strong> (hoci ju niektor\u00ed st\u00e1le pova\u017eovali za nevhodn\u00fa) s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00edci M\u00e1rie Antoinetty prijali.<\/p>\n<p>Ko\u0161ie\u013eku \u00e1 la reine si ob\u013e\u00fabili bohat\u00e9 \u017eeny nielen vo Franc\u00fazsku, ale postupne i v celej Eur\u00f3pe. Medzi v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 \u017eeny, ktor\u00e9 nesk\u00f4r pova\u017eovali ako nasledovn\u00ed\u010dky tohto \u0161t\u00fdlu obliekania, patrila napr\u00edklad <strong>Marie-Anne Paulze Lavoisier<\/strong> (1758-1836) &#8211; man\u017eelka franc\u00fazskeho chemika a \u0161\u013eachtica <strong>Antoina Lavoisiera<\/strong>. \u010caru novej m\u00f3dy neodolala ani rusk\u00e1 cis\u00e1rovn\u00e1 <strong>Al\u017ebeta Alexejevna<\/strong> (1779-1826).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Prechod k\u00a0seri\u00f3znej\u0161iemu \u0161t\u00fdlu \u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Po dov\u0155\u0161en\u00ed svojich tridsiatych naroden\u00edn , zaujala panovn\u00ed\u010dka k d\u00e1mskej m\u00f3de triezvej\u0161\u00ed pr\u00edstup. Tento m\u00f3dny prerod sa dal v\u0161imn\u00fa\u0165 hlavne na jej vtedaj\u0161\u00edch portr\u00e9toch. Kr\u00e1\u013eovn\u00e1 Franc\u00fazska poverila \u201eministerku m\u00f3dy\u201c, aby vytvorila o \u010dosi seri\u00f3znej\u0161ie oble\u010denie. M\u00e1ria Antoinetta sa rozhodla presta\u0165 nosi\u0165 kvety vo vlasoch a uprednostnila \u010delenky zo zamatu v tmav\u0161\u00edch odtie\u0148och \u010dervenej alebo modrej.<\/p>\n<p><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<h3><strong>Vplyv Antoinetty na s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00fa m\u00f3du<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>S\u00fa\u010dasn\u00ed m\u00f3dni n\u00e1vrh\u00e1ri dodnes \u010derpaj\u00fa in\u0161pir\u00e1ciu z ikonick\u00e9ho vzh\u013eadu M\u00e1rie Antoinetty a takisto\u00a0m\u00f3dnych kre\u00e1ci\u00ed kr\u00e1\u013eovskej kraj\u010d\u00edrky Rose Bertin. Velik\u00e1ni ako <strong>Christian Dior<\/strong>, <strong>Vivienne Westwood<\/strong>, <strong>Christian Lacroix<\/strong> \u010di <strong>Thierry Mugler<\/strong> patria k n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rom, ktor\u00ed svoje n\u00e1padit\u00e9 k\u00fasky prisp\u00f4sobili pr\u00e1ve franc\u00fazskej m\u00f3de. Jej vplyv mo\u017eno vidie\u0165 v <strong>rustik\u00e1lnych vzoroch <\/strong>zna\u010dky<strong> Batsheva<\/strong> and <strong>Brock Collection,<\/strong> ale aj v <strong>romantickej \u010dipke \u00edrskej m\u00f3dnej n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rky Simone Rocha<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>Dior so svojimi \u0161irok\u00fdmi suk\u0148ami, \u00fazkymi \u017eiv\u00f4tikmi, jemn\u00fdmi pastelov\u00fdmi farbami a\u00a0zlo\u017eit\u00fdmi kvetinov\u00fdmi v\u00fd\u0161ivkami &#8211; to v\u0161etko pripom\u00edna typick\u00fd \u0161t\u00fdl M\u00e1rie Antoinetty.<\/p>\n<p>\u0160t\u00fdl M\u00e1rie Antoinetty teda nie je zlo\u017eit\u00e9 rozpozna\u0165 ani dnes. T\u00e1to jedna kr\u00e1\u013eovn\u00e1 po sebe zanechala obrovsk\u00fd vplyv vo svete m\u00f3dy \u2013 vplyv, ktor\u00fd zatienil v\u0161etky ostatn\u00e9 panovn\u00ed\u010dky. Antoinetta sa stala najlep\u0161ou verziou \u201ediev\u010denskej diev\u010diny\u201c. Svojej z\u00e1\u013eube ku kr\u00e1snym veciam sa venovala naplno, a\u00a0to najm\u00e4 v\u00a0\u010dasoch, kedy e\u0161te nemala deti (man\u017eelstvo Antoinetty s \u013dudov\u00edtom XVI. bolo toti\u017e prv\u00fdch osem rokov bezdetn\u00e9).<\/p>\n Na p\u00f3diu prehliadky The Moschino Jese\u0148\/Zima 2020 kra\u013eovala m\u00f3da M\u00e1rie Antoinetty. Zdroj:sk.pinterest.com\n Christian Dior Zdroj:www.vam.ac.uk\n Detail pr\u00e1ce Christiana Diora: Designer of Dreams exhibition (2019). Zdroj:www.vam.ac.uk\n<p>Zdroje: www.thecollector.com, www.townandcountrymag.com<\/p>\n<p>Zdroj titulnej fotografie: <strong>thecollector.com<\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Jej trendy dodnes napodob\u0148uj\u00fa \u0161pi\u010dkov\u00ed n\u00e1vrh\u00e1ri Po\u010das dlh\u00fdch rokov boli kr\u00e1\u013eovn\u00e9 posudzovan\u00e9 na z\u00e1klade toho, \u010do na sebe mali oble\u010den\u00e9. Od sukn\u00ed Isabeau Bavorskej (kv\u00f4li<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[51],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7437","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archiv","two-columns"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7437","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7437"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7437\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7437"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7437"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7437"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}