{"id":8180,"date":"2023-02-21T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-02-20T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/uncategorized\/znamy-odevny-retazec-hm-zacina-riesit-otazku-udrzatelnosti\/"},"modified":"2023-02-21T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2023-02-20T23:00:00","slug":"znamy-odevny-retazec-hm-zacina-riesit-otazku-udrzatelnosti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/archiv\/znamy-odevny-retazec-hm-zacina-riesit-otazku-udrzatelnosti\/","title":{"rendered":"Zn\u00e1my odevn\u00fd re\u0165azec H&#038;M za\u010d\u00edna rie\u0161i\u0165 ot\u00e1zku udr\u017eate\u013enosti. V minulosti bol v\u0161ak obvinen\u00fd z greenwashingu"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>V s\u00fa\u010dasnosti sa \u010doraz viac stret\u00e1vame s pojmom udr\u017eate\u013en\u00e1 m\u00f3da. <strong>Sp\u00e1ja sa najm\u00e4 so starostlivos\u0165ou o na\u0161u plan\u00e9tu,<\/strong> ale v\u00fdnimku netvoria ani lep\u0161ie pracovn\u00e9 podmienky, v ktor\u00fdch sa oble\u010denie vyr\u00e1ba.<\/p>\n<p>Do povedomia sa dostal po p\u00e1de budovy Rana Plaza, v ktorej banglad\u00e9\u0161ski obyvatelia pracovali na v\u00fdrobe oble\u010denia zn\u00e1mych textiln\u00fdch re\u0165azcov. Dan\u00e9 ne\u0161\u0165astie je zn\u00e1me aj ako <strong>najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ia trag\u00e9dia m\u00f3dneho priemyslu,<\/strong> pri\u010dom pri\u0161lo o \u017eivot 1 134 \u013eud\u00ed, informuje port\u00e1l Interez. Zn\u00e1mym faktom je aj to, \u017ee majitelia budovy vedeli o jej naru\u0161enej statike, av\u0161ak zisky zv\u00ed\u0165azili nad \u013eudskos\u0165ou. V objekte sa okrem spom\u00ednanej tov\u00e1rne nach\u00e1dzali aj banka, byty \u010di obchody.<\/p>\n<p>Danej t\u00e9me sa venovala aj greeninfluencerka a b\u00fdval\u00e1 modelka Nat\u00e1lia Pa\u017eick\u00e1, ktor\u00e1 sa na svojom instagramovom \u00fa\u010dte venuje ot\u00e1zke udr\u017eate\u013enosti. Poukazuje najm\u00e4 na ned\u00f4stojn\u00e9 podmienky, v ktor\u00fdch sa oble\u010denie vyr\u00e1ba, <strong>nako\u013eko ide o pr\u00e1cu za p\u00e1r centov denne.<\/strong> Okrem toho d\u00e1va do povedomia aj r\u00f4zne odevn\u00e9 re\u0165azce, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa typick\u00e9 pre greenwashing (pozn. red. prezentovanie v\u00fdrobkov ako ekologick\u00e9, pri\u010dom tomu tak nie je).<\/p>\n<h3>Fast fashion a udr\u017eate\u013en\u00e1 m\u00f3da<\/h3>\n<p>Ako sme si mohli v\u0161imn\u00fa\u0165, v\u00fdklady obchodov v n\u00e1kupn\u00fdch centr\u00e1ch sa menia neuverite\u013enou r\u00fdchlos\u0165ou. Mohli by sme to prirovna\u0165 a\u017e k n\u00faten\u00e9mu diktovaniu trendov, ktor\u00e9 pre ich kr\u00e1tku \u017eivotnos\u0165 nemaj\u00fa \u017eiadnu hodnotu. V\u00fdnimkou nie s\u00fa ani pravideln\u00e9 v\u00fdpredaje, <strong>po\u010das ktor\u00fdch je oble\u010denie v mnoh\u00fdch pr\u00edpadoch e\u0161te drah\u0161ie ne\u017e v p\u00f4vodnej cene.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Pred p\u00e1r d\u0148ami internetom obehla spr\u00e1va, \u017ee <strong>zn\u00e1my \u0161v\u00e9dsky odevn\u00fd re\u0165azec H&amp;M Group spolu s recykla\u010dnou skupinou Remondis zalo\u017eili spolo\u010dn\u00fd podnik,<\/strong> uv\u00e1dza Forbes. Dan\u00e1 spolo\u010dnos\u0165 m\u00e1 nies\u0165 n\u00e1zov Looper Textile Co, pri\u010dom sa m\u00e1 zameriava\u0165 na zber, triedenie a predaj pou\u017eit\u00fdch a nechcen\u00fdch odevov.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CVFHtLwtaDj\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\">\n<div style=\"padding: 16px;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;\">Zobrazi\u0165 tento pr\u00edspevok na Instagrame<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\"width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\">Pr\u00edspevok, ktor\u00fd zdie\u013ea Nat\u00e1lia Pa\u017eick\u00e1 (@nataliapazicka)<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p><strong><em>\u201eDnes sa v Eur\u00f3pskej \u00fani\u00ed vyzbiera menej ako 40 % pou\u017eit\u00e9ho oble\u010denia,\u201c<\/em><\/strong> tvrd\u00ed gener\u00e1lna riadite\u013eka spom\u00ednan\u00e9ho nov\u00e9ho podniku Emily Bolon.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>\u201ePou\u017eit\u00e9 a nepotrebn\u00e9 odevy sa musia najprv zozbiera\u0165 a roztriedi\u0165 do r\u00f4znych skup\u00edn, napr\u00edklad pod\u013ea typu materi\u00e1lu alebo odevu, aby sa mohli op\u00e4tovne pou\u017ei\u0165 \u010di recyklova\u0165. Preto ide 60 % spotrebite\u013esk\u00e9ho textilu priamo do odpadu,\u201c<\/em> <\/strong>dod\u00e1va.<\/p>\n<p>Okrem uveden\u00fdch \u00fakonov m\u00e1 by\u0165 pre Looper prim\u00e1rnym cie\u013eom aj <strong>pred\u013a\u017eenie \u017eivotn\u00e9ho cyklu pribli\u017ene 40 mili\u00f3nom kusov oble\u010denia v priebehu roku 2023.<\/strong> Pr\u00e1ve preto spojenie spolo\u010dnost\u00ed Remondis a H&amp;M Group m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 \u00faspe\u0161nej\u0161ie ne\u017e sa zd\u00e1.<\/p>\n<h3>Obvinenie z greenwashingu<\/h3>\n<p>S\u00edce ide o pozit\u00edvny krok fast fashion spolo\u010dnosti k udr\u017eate\u013enosti, netreba zab\u00fada\u0165 na minulos\u0165. Ako uviedla aj Nat\u00e1lia Pa\u017eick\u00e1 na svojom Instagrame, <strong>odevn\u00fd gigant H&amp;M bol v minulosti obvinen\u00fd z greenwashingu.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Port\u00e1l Renewable Matter uv\u00e1dza, \u017ee \u017ealobcom bola americk\u00e1 \u0161tudentka marketingu Chelsea Cammodore. <strong>Predmetom \u017ealoby boli odevy kolekcie Conscious Collection,<\/strong> ktor\u00e9 za prezentuj\u00fa ako \u0161etrn\u00e9 vo\u010di plan\u00e9te. Okrem toho Commodore nebola jedin\u00e1, ktor\u00e1 s dan\u00fdm tvrden\u00edm nes\u00fahlasila. Na z\u00e1klade toho odborn\u00edci tvrdia, \u017ee ide o varovanie, ktor\u00e9 by textiln\u00e9 spolo\u010dnosti nemali ignorova\u0165.<\/p>\n<p>Pod\u013ea webovej str\u00e1nky H&amp;M uveden\u00e9 odevy s\u00fa naozaj vytvoren\u00e9 tak, aby boli aspo\u0148 trocha \u0161etrn\u00e9 pre plan\u00e9tu. Pr\u00e1ve preto ka\u017ed\u00fd produkt danej kolekcie obsahuje najmenej o 50 % viac udr\u017eate\u013enej\u0161\u00edch materi\u00e1lov, ako s\u00fa napr\u00edklad organick\u00e1 bavlna alebo recyklovan\u00fd polyester. Na podlo\u017eenie svojich tvrden\u00ed sa zna\u010dka pripojila aj k Higg Indexu, ktor\u00fd je zn\u00e1my ako <strong>index udr\u017eate\u013enosti pre textiln\u00fd a m\u00f3dny priemysel.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u013dudia vyr\u00e1baj\u00faci oble\u010denie pre fast fashion re\u0165azce zarobia p\u00e1r centov denne. Zdroj: pexels.com\n<p>Vyvinula ho organiz\u00e1cia Sustainable Apparel Coalition, <strong>ktorej hodnotenia boli uveden\u00e9 na webovej str\u00e1nke H&amp;M.<\/strong> Po spom\u00ednanom s\u00fadnom spore v\u0161ak tento odevn\u00fd gigant pova\u017eoval za rozumnej\u0161ie ich odstr\u00e1ni\u0165.<\/p>\n<h3>Ako dospie\u0165 k udr\u017eate\u013enosti?<\/h3>\n<p>Ako sme p\u00edsali v na\u0161om predo\u0161lom \u010dl\u00e1nku, podpori\u0165 udr\u017eate\u013en\u00fa m\u00f3du je jednoduch\u0161ie ne\u017e sa zd\u00e1. Za najide\u00e1lnej\u0161\u00ed krok sa pova\u017euje, ak by sme si v priebehu roka zadov\u00e1\u017eili len tri nov\u00e9 kusy oble\u010denia. Pre s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00e9 gener\u00e1cie to v\u0161ak nie je najjednoduch\u0161ie rie\u0161enie, <strong>nako\u013eko 21. storo\u010die sa vyzna\u010duje aj s ve\u013ekou mierou materializmu.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fa rolu v\u0161ak zohr\u00e1va aj n\u00e1kup kvalitn\u00e9ho oble\u010denia. <strong>Odpor\u00fa\u010da sa podpori\u0165 sk\u00f4r men\u0161ie lok\u00e1lne zna\u010dky,<\/strong> ktor\u00e9 vyr\u00e1baj\u00fa odevy z udr\u017eate\u013enej\u0161\u00edch materi\u00e1lov, ne\u017e textiln\u00fdch gigantov tvoriacich najvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed podiel na trhu. V d\u00f4sledku toho port\u00e1l Eco Hero prin\u00e1\u0161a p\u00e1r \u010deskoslovensk\u00fdch m\u00f3dnych zna\u010diek, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa typick\u00e9 pre udr\u017eate\u013enos\u0165. Patria k n\u00edm Heavenly, Cila\u00a0alebo \u010cesk\u00e1 bio m\u00f3da. Ich v\u00fdrobky tvoria pr\u00edrodn\u00e9 materi\u00e1ly, ku ktor\u00fdm patria bio bavlna, \u013ean \u010di bambus.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>V s\u00fa\u010dasnosti sa \u010doraz viac stret\u00e1vame s pojmom udr\u017eate\u013en\u00e1 m\u00f3da. Sp\u00e1ja sa najm\u00e4 so starostlivos\u0165ou o na\u0161u plan\u00e9tu, ale v\u00fdnimku netvoria ani lep\u0161ie pracovn\u00e9 podmienky,<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[51],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8180","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archiv","two-columns"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8180","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8180"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8180\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8180"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8180"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/instrid.sk\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8180"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}